This guide covers all the “currently available models”. Within you will find a list of those that are compatible as well as maintenance best practice & recommendations.
..: Currently available models (May 2024)
As is usual within the airsoft scene there can be a fair bit of confusion due to licensing about which RIFs have KWC as their OEM. This is intended to be as current a list as possible however with these things sometimes being as clear as the mud I’m so fond of let me know in the comments if I’ve missed any. Whilst this list is based on inventories available at UK & HK vendors, it should also apply to what’s available in the US & EU.
Magazines/parts will be interchangeable between all models in this table.
| Brand | Model name | Trademarks | Sights |
|---|---|---|---|
| Milbro | MILBRO Classic M1911 | “CLASSIC 1911” | Novak |
| KWC | KWC CO2 GBB M1911 | Full Colt | Novak |
| Milbro | MILBRO 1911 Rail | “1911 TACTICAL RAIL” | Novak |
| KWC | KWC M1911 Dual Stainless Metal Rail | Full Colt | Novak |
| Cybergun | Cybergun KWC Colt 1911 Rail | Full Colt | Novak |
| Cybergun | Cybergun KWC Colt 1911 Rail TAN1 | “COLT ☆☆☆ M45A1” | Novak |
| Umarex | Elite Force 1911 TAC2 | “ELITE FORCE 1911 TAC” | Novak |
| KWC | KWC 1911 A1 Tactical | No slide markings. “KWC made in Taiwan” on frame, rail. | Novak |
| KWC | KWC M1911 | No slide markings. “KWC made in Taiwan” on frame. | Colt |
| Cybergun | 100th Anniversary Colt M1911-A13 | Full colt | Colt |
..: Maintenance
CO₂’s big advantage over green gas is it ability to use in colder climes thanks to the lower impact of temperature.
Its big disadvantage is its “dry” nature – thanks to this and its higher pressure then green gas it has a tendency to strip lubrication off seals & slides. So long as you take the time to clean & lube after EVERY skirmish day you should find that it is a reliable work horse.
The KWC 1911 is also really easy to field strip as you’ll see below.
This is the basic clean/lube I recommend as a bare minimum.
I recommend the following basic items to keep everything working :
Abbey Gun Lube SM 50 – great for metal on metal lubrication. It won’t rot your seals & is thicker with better staying power under the greater strain of CO₂ blowback. More likely to pick up sand & grit however, so make sure to remove, wipe over with silicone (spray is fine) before you re-apply.
Abbey Silicone Gun Oil 35 – what you want to stop your o-rings drying out!
Multifunctional Gas Valve Key – to easily remove your gas valve
First thing to do is to vent any remaining CO₂ from your mag. According to KWC themselves the best way to do this is to gently unscrew the CO₂ capsule using the hex key and let it vent slowly, unscrewing a little bit more everytime the flow drops until empty. Recycle your empty capsule.
A drop of silicone oil on the piercing valve will keep everything behaving.
Using the valve key (you should see that one has two raised “bumps” which match the head of the valve) unscrew it anti-clockwise. Once its loose I find it easy enough to use my fingers.
Remove the valve – you just see either on the end or possibly floating inside the hole a rubber o-ring. Give everything a clean with silcone (spray is fine) – the side of the valve seems to attract crud in your dump/mag pouches. Place the o-ring on the bottom of the valve, put a drop a silicone oil on then re-insert and tighten the valve.
Next, remove your slide. I’ve used my stainless model as its easier to see where I put the Gun Lube. You can just silicone oil/spray but with the vigorous blow back I’ve found my slide feels “dry” after use. The Gun Lube has a lot more staying power so will happily keep everything smooth while you’re in game.
You’ll notice clear points of wear – the finish will take on a scuffed appearance.
Make sure to wipe off the old lube, give it a quick rub with a cloth with some silicone on it then re-apply. This is to get rid of any crud that it picked up while you were out bog snorkeling or bashing brambles.
Don’t worry if you find you’ve put too much on. Whilst Gun Lube has much less of tendency to cover absolutely everything in the vicinity of where you’ve applied it you may well see a bit appearing on the outside of the 1911 between the slide & frame. Just wipe this off.
I recommend a small amount of silicone on the recoil spring/guide as well.
I normally do a full field strip of the barrel unit & springs as well – its a really easy job. With the amount of time I spend in the deeper regions of where I play it just helps to make sure that all the moving parts stay clear of obstructions & general crap.
However, keep on top of this basic regime & you should find you’re good to go. The vast majority of problems are caused by un-lubed moving parts or dry seals.
If you find your o-ring is distorted, cracked or no longer holding a seal (gas will vent despite you tightening the CO₂ capsule) then the o-ring probably needs replacing.
These are widely available – search for 8mm OD, 6mm ID (outer diameter, inner diameter).
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